Understanding Paint Chips and Their Causes

Before diving into the solutions, it’s crucial to understand what causes the damage to your car’s finish.  Often, it’s caused by small rocks, debris, or minor bumps that strip away the paint, revealing the metal beneath.  Additionally, environmental factors like extreme weather conditions, sunlight, and corrosion from salt can worsen the issue. Knowing these causes helps you take preventive steps and choose the most effective repair method.

Auto Detailing Products

Investing in quality Auto Detailing Products and services can work wonders for preserving your vehicle’s appearance. This also prevents color damage. Look for high-grade waxes, sealants, and ceramic coatings that offer additional protection against wear and tear.  However, if your car’s paint has deep scratches or dents, it’s normally best to opt for professional services from an auto body shop. With the help of experts, you will get a glossy finish with improved aesthetics. This also reduces the cost of maintenance and extends the lifespan of your vehicle’s exterior color.  Keeping your vehicle in good condition increases its value.

Choosing the Right Touch-Up Services

For minor imperfections, turning to professional touch-up services can make a significant difference. These experts use color-matching technology to find the perfect paint match for your car. This ensures that the repair blends seamlessly with the surrounding area. This method is especially effective for small blemishes, making them virtually invisible.

Protective Film Layers

Installing a clear protective film can provide long-lasting protection against various types of damage. These films are designed to absorb and deflect damaging elements when applied to high-prone areas like the front bumper, hood, and side mirrors.  In addition, it also keeps your exterior shiny as brand new. The transparent, nearly invisible finish ensures your car’s aesthetic is not compromised while its exterior remains protected from harm.

High-Tech Scanning in Dent Detection

You can opt for cutting-edge scanning technology that is revolutionizing how dents are detected and assessed. Experts achieve flawless results from Paintless Dent Removal (PDR) to innovative bonding and reshaping methods while preserving its original paint.  This approach allows for thorough assessment and precise repairs, ensuring that even minor imperfections are addressed effectively.

Expert Techniques for Scratch Removal – Polishing and Sanding

Professionals employ various techniques for scratch removal, including polishing, wet sanding, compound filling, touch-up paint, and clear coat repair. Polishing gently buffs out light scratches, while wet sanding levels deeper scratches with fine-grit sandpaper and water.  This touch-up coat is used for deep scratches, while clear coat repair restores damaged areas.  These methods require proper maintenance to prevent future damage.  For more extensive or deep scratches, you need professional assistance.

Preventing Future Paint Chips

Prevention is always better than cure. Protective measures can greatly reduce the risk of damage. Consider applying a clear paint protection film, especially on high-impact areas like the hood and bumper. This provides protection against scratches and chips.  Additionally, regular waxing can also provide a protective layer, making your car’s exterior more resilient against minor harm.

Regular Professional Maintenance

Regular professional maintenance is essential for preserving your car’s exterior. Scheduled detailing sessions conducted by experts maintain their appearance and enable early detection and correction of any new imperfections. This proactive approach ensures your vehicle always sports a glossy, impeccable finish.

By entrusting your vehicle to professionals regularly, you can extend its lifespan, ensuring it remains a source of pride for years to come. So, prioritize regular professional maintenance and your vehicle will look and feel (almost) brand new for years to come.

The Final Thoughts

Maintaining the exterior of your car and keeping it free from paint chips, dents, and scratches requires a combination of the right techniques and products. By following the right tips and contacting a professional when necessary, you can preserve your car’s beauty and integrity. Remember, the key to a dazzling car exterior lies in addressing current imperfections and preventing future ones.

Until next time…

-John

The post Fed Up with Paint Chips on Your Car? Here’s How to Eliminate Them! appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

P0463 Error Code in your Chevy Silverado – What Does it Mean?

Getting familiar with your vehicle’s Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) can be a game-changer, especially for tech enthusiasts who love to roll up their sleeves for some insightful troubleshooting. One such code that Silverado owners frequently encounter (unfortunately) is P0463. But what does this specific code mean for your Chevy Silverado? Let’s get right to the details.

The P0463 code signals a problem with the fuel level sensor circuit’s input, specifically indicating it’s reading way too high. This sensor plays a crucial role in monitoring how much fuel remains in the tank. It operates hand-in-hand with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the vehicle’s brains behind most automated systems. This sensor’s primary responsibility is to send the PCM accurate information to display the correct fuel gauge readings to the driver.

So what does the P0463 error code imply for your Chevy Silverado? In simple terms, it implies there’s a snag in your vehicle’s fuel level sensor circuit. In most cases, this flaw surfaces as a surprisingly high reading that doesn’t sync with the actual fuel quantity. The PCM identifies this discrepancy as an anomaly, hence triggering the P0463 code.

The triggering of a P0463 code doesn’t necessarily signal a severe issue — there’s no immediate threat to your vehicle’s functionality. However, it could cause convenience-related issues like running out of fuel unexpectedly due to inaccurate fuel gauge readings.

Now that we’ve covered what the P0463 error code is and what it implies for the Silverado let’s highlight the major factors contributing to this issue:

1. Faulty Fuel Level Sensor: A defective sensor is a common culprit for the P0463 code, translating inaccurate info to the PCM.
2. Circuit Issue: Problems with the fuel sensor circuit, including faulty wires or connections, can also provoke a P0463.
3. Malfunctioning Fuel Pump or PCM: While not as common, a failing fuel pump or a flawed PCM can sometimes spur the P0463 error.

The tech-savvy Chevy owner might prefer turning this issue into a DIY project. After scanning and confirming the P0463 code with an OBD-II scanner, the following options can be explored:

1. Inspect the Fuel Level Sensor: Check out the fuel level sensor for any apparent malfunctions. Replacement sensors are readily available online or at local auto parts stores.
2. Examine the Circuit: If the sensor seems fine, try tracing the problem back to any possible circuit issues. Be on the lookout for loose connections, damaged wires, or corrosion.
3. Fuel Pump and PCM: Finally, if the first two steps don’t hit the mark, consider checking the fuel pump and the PCM.

Additional Ways to Diagnose the Cause of a P0463 Code

1. Digital Multimeter Utilization

One of the most effective methods of diagnosing the P0463 code is the use of a digital multimeter. This device will allow you to test the fuel tank sensor resistance and prove instrumental in isolating the issue at hand. A lack of resistance constitutes an indication of a defective sensor.

2. Visual Inspection is Key

Sometimes, the root of the problem lies in the wiring associated with the fuel level sensor. Visually inspect the wiring, specifically looking for instances of fraying, damage, or disconnection. Additionally, look closely at the connections, ensuring they are clean, corrosion-free and secure. By focusing on wiring and connections, many sensor errors can be rectified.

3. Scan Tool Efficiency

A scan tool is a handy device that allows one to read the PCM data. By monitoring the fuel level sensor input on the scan tool, a clearer determination of the performance and functionality of the PCM can be attained, which may unearth the origins of the P0463 code.

4. Fuel Tank Analysis

Don’t overlook the importance of analyzing the fuel tank. Any lodged debris or obstructions may interfere with the fuel level sensor performance and result in a P0463 reading. Make sure to thoroughly investigate and clean the fuel tank if necessary.  Note: this can be a messy and potentially hazardous job. Proceed with caution!

5. Harness Inspection

Lastly, inspect the fuel pump harness and connector. Any signs of corrosion or damage necessitate immediate attention and likely replacement. Remember, a well-functioning connector is critical for optimal sensor performance.

Cost to Fix and Clear the P0463 Code

Below is a list of the most common repairs and the overall costs, based on a mechanic labor rate of $175/hr.  As a side note, labor costs can vary widely, but there has been a sharp increase in mechanic labor rates over the past couple years!  These costs are general estimates based on our research:

Fuel Level Sensor Replacement: 

        Parts: $39 – $105 (depending on model year)

        Labor: 1 – 2 hours @ $175/hr : $175 – $350

        TOTAL:  $214 – $455

Examining Circuit Issues/Loose Wires:

         Parts: (Hopefully none!)

         Labor: 1 hour @ $175/hr

         TOTAL: $175

Fuel Pump Replacement:

        Parts: $180 – $400 (depending on model year)

        Labor:  1 – 2 hours @ $175/hr : $175 – $350

        TOTAL:  $355 – $750

PCM Replacement:

         Parts: $660 – $875

         Labor: 1 hour @ $175/hr

         TOTAL:  $835 – $1050

As you can see, the cost to fix the P0463 code can range from $175 – $1050. It all depends on the exact cause of the issue.  If you can perform the repairs yourself, you can certainly save a couple hundred bucks in most cases.

Repair and Preventive Measures to Consider

In terms of preventing this issue’s re-occurrence, the same strategies used to diagnose and repair the P0463 error code can play a crucial role in preemptive care. Regular checks on the fuel tank, proper care of the fuel level sensor, and routinely checking the wiring harness integrity are all viable prevention tactics.

Conclusion

In most cases, the P0463 code is not a serious issue, but it does warrant your attention.  If you are a skilled DIY mechanic, you can probably perform the diagnostics and repairs yourself.  If you have any doubts about it, though, we highly recommend taking your truck to a certified mechanic.  Remember, the key to a smooth ride is proactive maintenance and timely repairs. So, don’t let an error code like P0463 get in the way of your road adventures. With the equipped skills and know-how, face the issue head-on, resolve it, and cruise on!

Until next post,

-John

The post P0463 OBD2 Error Code in a Chevy Silverado – A Comprehensive Repair Guide appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

Benefits of Waxing your Car

Wax acts as a protective barrier between your car’s paint and Mother Nature. It shields paint from contaminants like bird droppings, tree sap, and UV rays. These contaminants cause gradual damage to your car’s finish over time. Wax provides an extra layer of defense.

A well-maintained exterior significantly impacts your car’s resale value. Regular waxing preserves its value by preventing the paint from deteriorating. A vehicle with a well-preserved, glossy finish is more appealing to potential buyers. This gives it a higher perceived value.

The most noticeable benefit of waxing is that it creates a reflective surface that intensifies your car’s color. White cars, in particular, benefit from the added shine.

Waxing also creates a smoother surface that makes it easier to clean your car. Water, dirt, and grime are less likely to adhere to the waxed surface. This not only saves you time and effort, but also reduces the risk of scratching the paint during the cleaning process.

5 Best Waxes for White Cars (Our Field-Tested Reviews)

So, let’s get to it.  What is the best wax for white cars (and trucks)?  Selecting the best car wax for your white car is challenging because there are so many options available on the market. To make this choice easier, we’ve field-tested several different waxes, compared our notes, and compiled a list of the 5 best wax for white cars:

1) Turtle Wax 52712 Color Magic

Turtle Wax 52712 Professional Finish Color Magic...

• Cleans, shines, restores and adds colour while providing long lasting protection and outstanding shine.
• Easy to use
• Long lasting protection

$26.99

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Turtle Wax is one of the most recognizable brands in the world, making the Turtle Wax 52712 Color Magic a top choice for white car owners looking to rejuvenate their vehicle’s pristine appearance. Application is a breeze, so you won’t have to work extra hard to protect your car. It even conceals minor imperfections, leaving your car with a noticeably smoother finish.

When considering the cost-effectiveness, Turtle Wax 52712 Color Magic offers outstanding results without straining your budget. It’s an absolute recommendation for white car enthusiasts seeking an affordable, yet top-quality solution for safeguarding their vehicle’s pristine paint job. The combination if high-quality results and sheer value make this our #1 choice.

2) WEICA Car Wax White Solid for White Cars

WEICA Car Wax for Light & Metallic Cars | White,...

• ✓ Anti-Yellowing Clarity: Neutralizes haze on light-toned finishes while enhancing original brightness.
• ✓ Metallic Flake Enhancer: Deep gloss amplifies silver/ice gray sparkle.
• ✓ UV Shield Technology: Carnauba-based formula resists oxidation and fading.

$23.97

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When you first apply WEICA Car Wax, you’ll notice how easy it is to work with. The solid wax glides on smoothly and buffs out effortlessly, making the whole process a breeze. Not only did it enhance the brilliance of the white color on your car, but it hides minor imperfections and swirl marks, leaving your car with a clean and smooth finish that looked like it just rolled off the showroom floor.

The protection it offers is equally impressive. Considering the value for money, WEICA Car Wax White Solid is a fantastic investment for white car owners. It’s a product that delivers noticeable results without breaking the bank. So, if you want to maintain that stunning, showroom-quality appearance for your white car, WEICA Car Wax White Solid is definitely worth trying. Your white car will thank you for it.

3) Chemical Guys White Light Hybrid Radiant Finish

Chemical Guys Gap_620_16 White Light Hybrid...

• Gloss enhancer with brilliant shine
• Creates a wet, bright finish
• Perfect for white and light colors

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Chemical Guys White Light Hybrid Radiant Finish is the third on our list. After applying this outstanding wax, the difference in your white car’s finish is immediately noticeable. It leaves your car with a mirror-like shine that enhances the elegance of the white paint.

The protective qualities are equally impressive. It does an exceptional job of safeguarding your car’s paint from UV rays and repels water effectively. Although it might be priced a bit higher than some other options on our list, the results are well worth the investment.

4) Formula 1 White Color Car Wax

Formula 1 White Color Car Wax to Erase Car...

• Car Polisher Advanced Formula: Restore the vividness of your car paint with Formula 1 White Color Car Wax Polish. Our exclusive cross-linked polymer technology creates a clear, durable coating that...
• High-Gloss Finish: Specifically designed for use on automotive paint, our premium wax polisher for car detailing provides a brand-new, wet-looking shiny white color, as you first saw it at the...
• UV Protection: Keeping your auto paint shining and protected against sun damage is possible with this white color match car wax. Our formula contains UV-stable color pigments that help restore your...

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One of the standout features of Formula 1 White Color Car Wax is its color-specific formula, which is guaranteed to brighten your car’s finish and hide the imperfections. In terms of protection, this wax defends against the elements. You’ll notice the improvement immediately. Furthermore, it provides all of this protection without breaking the bank.

If you’re looking for an affordable and effective wax to protect your white car’s finish, Formula 1 White Color Car Wax holds up well when compared to other waxes on this list.

5) Car Gods Iris Custom Color White

Car Gods Iris Custom Color White 3-in-1 Polish Wax...

• 3 in 1: Iris Restores, Pigments and Protects vehicle paintwork.
• BRING BACK COLOR: The formula contains tiny white pigments, helping restore the color and improve the look of your paintwork.
• PROTECTIVE LAYER: Contains Carnauba Wax to leave protective, hydrophobic layer - helping keep your paintwork cleaner for longer.

$22.84

Buy on Amazon

The first thing that stands out about Car Gods Iris Custom Color White is its tailored approach to enhancing the beauty of white car paint. This wax is specifically formulated for white vehicles, and the results are stunning. It’s easy to apply and provides strong protection. This wax’s ability to mask minor imperfections and enhance the overall appearance of a white car is impressive, which is a testament considering the challenge of polishing white cars.

If you’re on the hunt for a top-tier wax to make your white vehicle stand out and willing to shell out some extra cash, then Car Gods Iris Custom Color White is an absolute winner.

Conclusion

Choosing the best wax for white cars makes a significant difference in its appearance and also protects this delicate color from Mother Nature. Each product mentioned in these reviews has its unique strengths, catering to various preferences and budgets. The key takeaway is that regular waxing is a vital part of maintaining the beauty of your white car.

The post Best Wax for White Cars appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

Are you wondering “Why did my car shut off while idling?”  If you have ever had an experience where your car shuts off when idle or at low speeds, you know how frustrating it can be. This situation can be made even worse when your car stalls when you are running late for work; on a busy street, resulting in a traffic jam behind you; or on a hot day when you have your kids in the car.

Of course, there is never really a convenient time for your engine to stall, but there are definitely some scenarios that are more inconvenient and even potentially dangerous than others! Car stalling can happen any
time, and there is no check engine light to warn you it is coming.

Compounding the problem is the fact that there are a number of different reasons why your engine may stall, making it challenging to identify and fix the root cause. In a vehicle with manual transmission, the problem is typically that you simply operated the manual clutch incorrectly, causing the gears to disengage and the engine to stall.

However, in an automatic transmission vehicle, you don’t have a manual clutch to worry about, so the problem is more likely to be mechanical. In general, when a car engine stalls when idle, it is because the engine is not getting enough air, power or fuel. Let’s take a look at each of these categories and what they mean in greater detail.

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Not Enough Air 

Airflow in and around your car engine is essential for its operation. Oxygen is required for the combustion process that powers your engine, and too much or not enough oxygen can diminish the engine’s efficiency. If the imbalance becomes too extreme, it can lead to engine stalling. There are several engine components that can lead to airflow troubles.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: window-close-o” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Mass Air Flow Sensor Problems [/su_icon_text]

Similarly to the oxygen sensor, the mass air flow sensor also measures air flow through your engine. However, the mass air flow sensor tracks oxygen levels on the way into the engine, not coming out through the exhaust. Again, inaccurate sensor readings can throw off the electronic control unit, potentially making your car stall.

You can expect to pay anywhere from $60 to $450 for the mass air flow sensor, depending on your vehicle’s requirements. Fortunately, installation is quick and easy, typically adding no more than $70 in labor charges.

 Pro Tip 
P0102 is a common OBD2 trouble code if you have a dirty air filter or clogged MAF. 

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Lack of Fuel 

When your car dies while idling, your first thought may be an empty gas tank or water in the fuel tank. This is definitely a possibility, but your engine can also stall when you have plenty of fuel in the gas tank if there is a problem elsewhere. Your vehicle’s fuel delivery system is made up of many components, including pumps, sensors and filters, that are responsible for delivering fuel to the engine’s combustion chambers.

When there is not enough fuel, the engine can’t keep running. Even a small disruption in the flow of gas, like from a clogged fuel filter, can result in the car shutting down because the air and fuel mixture is disrupted. Have your fuel delivery system inspected each time you take your vehicle in for service to help catch any problems before they lead to car stalling.

After making sure you have enough fuel in the gas tank, and it’s clean, the fuel pump is the next thing to check. Failing fuel pumps are marked with many different symptoms.

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Insufficient Power 

Power is essential to keeping any engine running, whether automotive or otherwise, and there are several components in your car’s engine that are critical.

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Spark Plugs 

Spark plugs are the part of the ignition system responsible for igniting the combustion process, so your engine definitely can’t run without them. As the fuel injectors push the gas into the combustion chamber, the spark plugs light it to create the combustion reaction that powers the engine. With age, spark plugs can begin to wear out, become damaged or simply fail, so it is important to replace them as needed. 

If your car died while idling, it’s probably not a spark plug. Failing spark plugs symptoms are usually notice by stutters when pressing the GO-pedal, or rough idle.

You’ll typically pay about $85 for new spark plugs, plus another $125 to $175 for labor. However, replacing a spark plug is a relatively simple car maintenance task that you can learn to do on your own. This can save you a lot of money over the life of your vehicle, so it is a good skill to learn, especially if you use copper spark plugs, which are common in older vehicles.

Although they cost less than silver, platinum and iridium spark plugs, they typically last no more than 30,000 miles. The other, long-lasting varieties have life spans up to 100,000 miles.

Transmission 

Simply mentioning transmission problems is enough to strike fear in any driver, as transmission repairs tend to be the most expensive. However, when it comes to car stalling, the problem is likely not a malfunctioning transmission itself, but rather the torque converter or the torque converter solenoid that powers it.

The torque converter takes the power the engine produces and delivers it to the drivetrain, effectively driving the vehicle. If it is not working properly, the drivetrain won’t receive enough power, and your engine dies.

Because your automotive technician will have to remove and dismantle the transmission to replace the torque converter, this job will typically cost around $1,200. It is a difficult and complex task, so unless you are highly experienced in working on cars, it is best to leave this one to the professionals. Replacing a broken torque converter solenoid, on the other hand, will typically only cost a few hundred dollars.
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Common Questions About Engine Idling and Stalling:

How long can I wait before addressing vehicle stalling? 

This is an issue that is best dealt with as quickly as possible. The longer you leave it, the more likely it is that you’ll run into other problems or potentially stall in a dangerous or inconvenient situation.

When would I need my engine to idle? 

Aside from stopping at a traffic signal, you should idle your vehicle about once a week if you don’t drive it very often. This will keep everything moving, helping to maintain engine performance.

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Address Stalling Problems While Idling Right Away 

There are other potential reasons why your car shuts off when idle, but those explained here are among the most common. If none of these seem to be the problem, your auto mechanic can help uncover the true reason your engine is stalling.  If your car shut off while idling and you’re unable to identify the issue, it’s a good idea to have it inspected by a qualified mechanic. They can perform a diagnostic check, scan the onboard computer for trouble codes, and conduct tests to pinpoint the exact cause of the problem.

No matter what the cause, though, it is best to take care of stalling troubles as soon as you can to prevent further damage to your engine. This is not the type of problem that might go away if you ignore it, so be sure to make it a priority.

Bringing your car in for regular tune-ups can help identify potential issues early on, possibly saving you from greater automotive troubles in the future. The better you care for your car, the better your car performs.
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The post Why Your Car Shuts Off When Idle | Air, Fuel and Spark appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

At its heart, owning a camper is about freedom. The ability to hit the open road, traveling wherever your spirit takes you. You’re free from the restraint posed by hotels, airlines, and sleazy restaurants. You can go where you want and know there will be a clean bed, a warm shower, and a home-cooked meal. It all sounds great, right? While it can be, the best-known secret in the RV world is that the logistics of using most campers can be a bit of a pain. Many RV’s are heavy, difficult to tow, consume a ton of fuel, and are generally inconvenient to use. These factors can easily take the fun out of a quick jaunt to the lake. Worse yet, they can make you use your new camper less than you’d expect. It doesn’t have to be this way. With ultra lightweight travel trailers under 2,000 pounds, you can experience the freedom that RVing once entailed.

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Why Choose an Ultra Lightweight Travel Trailer?

When shopping for their next camper trailer, many shoppers become a bit star-struck. I’ll be the first to admit that browsing the aisles of the latest RV show is awe-inspiring. There is no shortage of hulking trailers with unfathomable levels of luxury. Fireplaces? Commonplace. Washers and dryers? No problem. Fold-down patios? Absolutely. All of these things seem great on paper, but they can be a hassle in the real world.

All of these features have one thing in common: they’re heavy. While 6,500-pounds used to be considered a fairly hefty trailer, it is startlingly common to see travel trailers weighing 14,000-pounds or more. Towing these rigs requires specialized tow vehicles – commonly dually pickup trucks – which are not only expensive but are difficult to use as a daily driver. Thus, you find yourself needing a dedicated tow vehicle just to haul your camper. The cost adds up quickly. Beyond the cost, these units are intimidating to drive for even experienced campers, and the size can often limit your destinations.

By choosing an ultra lightweight travel trailer, you can tow your camper with the family SUV. You can most likely store it at your house instead of a storage lot. You won’t dread towing it so you’ll use it more often. Sure, they lack some of the luxuries, but the relaxation more than makes up for it. And ultimately, they help you remember the point of camping: enjoying nature, spending time with your family, and escaping the stresses of the world. Doesn’t that sound like a weight off your shoulders?
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Our Top Picks:

While larger campers are becoming increasingly common, ultra-lightweight models are gaining in popularity as well. However, not all campers are created equally. We’ve toured dealerships, scouted RV shows, and perused every RV publication we could find to find the best half-pint trailers on the market. Here are the best of the best:

2. Roulotte Prolite Suite

When shopping for an ultralight option, many campers naturally migrate towards teardrops. These adorable queen beds-on-wheels are actually some of the oldest campers around, with early examples dating back to the 1920s. While they are undeniably cute and exceptionally lightweight, they are not without drawbacks. Because of their limited interior space, they don’t provide much in the way of an escape on a rainy day. Roulotte sought to combine the advantages of a teardrop with the functionality of a conventional travel trailer with their Prolite Suite. While still minuscule, it unquestionably advances the bar over a teardrop.

The Prolite Suite is very similar in shape to a teardrop, but it is significantly taller. While you still won’t be able to stand inside, the difference between crouching and crawling is a big one. Rather than the interior being nothing more than a bed like in most teardrops, this trailer features a sofa-bed with a folding table, allowing you shelter for watching TV or eating a meal during inclement weather. This can make a huge difference in your camping experience, especially on longer trips.

Small trailers are no stranger to compromises. In the Roulotte, that compromise is primarily in the lack of a permanent kitchen. While many tear-drops have a rear-mounted kitchen under a swinging hatch, the Roulotte uses that space for more interior volume. Thus, any cooking will be done camp-style on a normal camp stove. Practically speaking this makes little difference, and there are tons of excellent folding camp kitchens available. To our eyes, they made the right choice.

The shining attribute of this 12-foot, $14,950 camper is the weight. It’s only 560-pounds. This almost unbelievably low weight is achieved through a combination of composite materials, clever gussets, and aluminum construction. It may not be the lightest trailer ever made, but it is certainly the lightest we’ve ever found. Their advertising prominently features a MINI Cooper towing this trailer, a testament to its svelte construction. If you’re looking for the ultimate in lightweight designs while still having some meaningful shelter, this is a beautiful option.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: star” icon_color=”#00a9e0″]Bottom Line: This teardrop-like trailer has the compact size to easily haul, but still good room for moving around inside! [/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: balance-scale” icon_color=”#fb4a2a”]Weight: 560 lbs (unloaded)[/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: money” icon_color=”#00e07d”]Price: $14,000+ [/su_icon_text]

4. NuCamp T@B 320 Classic

It is rare for a truly new style of camper to emerge onto the market. While there is certainly a large variety of models and options out there, the bulk of campers are still square boxes with familiar designs. When NuCamp introduced the T@B (aka TAB) over a decade ago, the spelling wasn’t the only novel aspect of this camper. The most notable aspect of any NuCamp trailer is the shape. With their long flowing curves, they are somehow both classic and modern. They look much like a teardrop, but they are significantly taller and longer. Thus, they don’t suffer from the sometimes claustrophobic feeling of many teardrops. They also have indoor kitchens, a huge bonus for longer-term campers.

The inside of the T@B classic is sleek and fashionable with light colors and flowing curves. It feels more like an Ikea showroom than a camper. The quality is impeccable too. T@Bs are not the least expensive option on the market – the Classic 320 is around $34,000 MSRP – but the quality justifies the price. You won’t find a small ultralight trailer with higher build quality at any price. The composite paneling means they’re resistant to leaks, and the wiring and plumbing are quite simply the best on the market. This is a company that understands the importance of attention to detail.

The interior of these 1,900-pound trailers is compact, but they incorporated highly modular designs that make the space seem much larger. The rear features a u-shaped dinette that can serve a variety of roles, converting into twin beds, a queen bed, or a sofa. Towards the front, you’ll find a full-featured kitchen against the front wall and a wet bath to the side. The bathroom might not be the most comfortable for taller campers, but having a bathroom at all is a rarity in a trailer this size. If you want a unique camper that makes quality a top priority, the T@B deserves a look.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: star” icon_color=”#00a9e0″]Bottom Line: This trailer utilizes space so well, “cramped” is not a word commonly used to describe it! [/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: balance-scale” icon_color=”#fb4a2a”]Weight: 1,900 lbs (unloaded)[/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: money” icon_color=”#00e07d”]Price: Around $34,000+ [/su_icon_text]

6. Jayco Hummingbird 10RK

After Rockwood released the immediately popular Geo-Pro 12RK, we all knew it wouldn’t be long before similar trailers emerged onto the market. The idea of a squared-off rugged teardrop was simply too good of an idea to not imitate. Although the basic design and layout of the Jayco Hummingbird 10RK are very similar to the pint-sized Geo-Pro, it is far from a hastily built copy. As with everything they build, Jayco made sure the Hummingbird 10RK met their quality standards and featured the attention to detail that Jayco has become known for.

The focus for the Hummingbird 10RK is twofold: features and value. Many ultralight campers are inherently stripped down with seemingly no standard features. That isn’t the case here. Every 10RK made has a large array of details, including air conditioning, a TV, a Bluetooth stereo, a fridge, microwave, clearance lights, awning, and more. It’s honestly impressive how many standard features they fit into this 1,200-pound multi-tool.

The value is also astounding. As you may have noticed, simply because a trailer is small does not necessarily make it inexpensive. Many of the models we’ve featured in this list actually cost more than their larger cousins. However, the Hummingbird delivers on Jayco’s promise of value. At around $13,000 MSRP, this is an affordable and imminently useful camper for anyone looking to simplify their camping experience.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: star” icon_color=”#00a9e0″]Bottom Line: Unlike the previous Cricket, this Jayco trailer is perfect for small-space glamping with all the amenities. [/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: balance-scale” icon_color=”#fb4a2a”]Weight: 1,200 lbs (unloaded)[/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: money” icon_color=”#00e07d”]Price: Around $13,000+ [/su_icon_text]

8. Scamp 13 Travel Trailer

Scamps are one of those trailers where you cannot help but smile when you see one. Their distinctive bubble-shaped exteriors have remained largely unchanged for years, but it is a design that functions so well that these campers have developed an avid cult-like following. The goal of a Scamp was never luxury. Rather, they are honest and durable campers that last for decades and provide a safe comfortable place to stay.

Scamp construction is more similar to a boat than a travel trailer. Using a giant mold, the body of the Scamp is cast in two pieces, top and bottom, using hand-laid fiberglass. These two pieces are then bonded together like a 1,500-pound walnut. This method results in a trailer with no seams or cracks on the roof, meaning that it is almost impossible for a Scamp to leak. Anyone who has ever dealt with the detrimental effects of a leaking travel trailer will know how significant this is.

The interior of a Scamp is unlike any other trailer. Being a molded trailer, the interior is largely exposed gel-coat fiberglass with only a few fabric and wood embellishments. To be honest, it isn’t likely to win any style awards. However, it is exceptionally easy to keep clean and it is staggeringly durable. There are 40-year-old Scamps still being used today that still look new.

Although they are an acquired taste, it is a pleasure that Scamps are still being made. They are one of the few compact trailers that have the durability to last decades, and they are a wonderful option for a tough but elegant camper.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: star” icon_color=”#00a9e0″]Bottom Line: This boat-like trailer may not suit everyone, but it sure durable! [/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: balance-scale” icon_color=”#fb4a2a”]Weight: around 1,500 lbs (unloaded)[/su_icon_text]

10. Little Guy Mini Max

In much the same way that the Armadillo represents a value-driven alternative to the Scamp, the Little Guy Mini Max gives shoppers a value-oriented alternative to the NuCamp T@B. While we are quick to sing the praises of the T@B, we will also admit that the prices can be intimidating for some budgets. Thus, having more options is always welcome. Little Guy got their start by designing classic teardrops, and they quickly developed a reputation for top-notch quality. With the Mini Max, they set out to create a stand-up camper with the same quality.

The layout of the Mini Max will be familiar to T@B owners. There is a multi-function rear dinette, a front kitchen, and a side-mounted wet bath. The finishes are simple but very attractive, and the quality seems excellent. Notably, there is 6’3” of headroom, making this among the most height-friendly options in this class.

The Mini Max lacks some of the luxury and cute touches of the T@B, but it also features an MSRP of well under $30,000. Initial impressions look great, and it is wonderful to have another option on the market for the “tall teardrop” category.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: star” icon_color=”#00a9e0″]Bottom Line: This T@B is a great addition to the reasonably priced line-up of tall, tear drop campers! [/su_icon_text]

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: balance-scale” icon_color=”#fb4a2a”]Weight: 2,320 lbs (unloaded)[/su_icon_text]

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Conclusion

Looking for an ultralight trailer no longer means you have to be penalized or denied features. The days of settling for a basic bed-in-a-box teardrop are long gone, and the ultralight market has never had more options. Whether you’re looking for a stylish T@B, a rugged Scamp, a funky Cricket, or even a toy hauler like the No Boundaries NB10.6, there is something out there for everyone. You don’t need to have a huge truck to tow a trailer, and you don’t need a giant camper to have fun. With these svelte campers, you can have all the enjoyment and none of the stress.

Need more beds? Check out these lightweight bunkhouse travel trailers. 

If you want larger trailers, that are still under 7,000 pounds, check this article out.
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The post 10 Best Ultra Lightweight Travel Trailers Under 2000 Pounds appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

While most people think of the summer as the peak season for camping, winter outings can be a hidden gem. While tent camping in the colder months might be limited to the brave or foolish, having an RV allows you to extend your camping adventures year-round. Although the decrease in mosquitos and humidity is a welcome change, winter camping still carries its fair share of challenges.

Compared to a traditional home, campers are generally not exceptionally well insulated. Thus, keeping them warm can be difficult even when everything is working properly. There are multiple systems that various RVs use to heat their interiors, but the traditional propane furnace is the most common. There are countless advantages to these tried-and-true units. They’re inexpensive, efficient, and generally quite reliable. Of course, no machine is immune to issues.

Having an RV furnace that won’t ignite is a frustrating experience.

If the thermometer drops low enough, it can even be an issue of safety. Whether you’re full-time or simply out for a chilly escape, it is important to know how to quickly have your furnace back in business. Thankfully, the troubleshooting process is quite simple and can be done by anyone. All you need is some patience and a checklist- like ours below!

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8 Things to Check When Your RV Furnace Doesn’t Ignite

Although this list is not necessarily in order, it isn’t a bad idea to work your way through it one item at a time. As you gain more experience repairing your RV systems, you will develop shortcuts to getting to the heart of the matter more efficiently.
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2. Propane

When it comes to diagnosing a flaky furnace, Occam’s razor normally applies: the simple solutions are often the most likely. Your furnace likely runs on propane, distributed from one or two tanks somewhere near the front of your RV. Unlike your car, there isn’t a gas gauge on these fuel tanks, so it is easy for their levels to slip your mind. If you can hear your furnace running but no heat is being blown, it is very possible that you are simply out of propane.

How to Check Your Levels:

To check the level of your tanks, feel the outside of the tank and see if there is a specific level where the tank is significantly colder. Because of the pressure of the propane, it lowers the temperature of the tank, so you can tell how full it is. If you can’t tell based on feel, simply pick up the tank and see how much it weighs. An empty tank is typically lighter than it looks, so if you have no struggle hoisting your propane tanks, they are probably empty.

Is There a Backup?

Finally, if your RV has two propane tanks, see how they are plumbed. Some higher-end RVs have automatic tank switching wherein you don’t need to manually change anything to switch from the empty tank to the full. However, if your RV is not equipped with such a system, you may need to open a different valve or even swap over the hose. If you are unsure of how to do this, see if someone around your campground is willing to help. Campers are generally very helpful people, and you’re sure to find someone who can get the gas flowing again.
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4. Battery Power

If all of the fuses check out and you know you have fuel in your tanks, the next step is to verify that you have sufficient battery power to run your furnace. The electronics and blower motor of your thermostat and furnace are generally powered by the 12-volt DC system in your RV. This is normally an advantage because it allows your furnace to provide heat while boondocking, but it can also lead to problems when your batteries run low.

Check Your Voltage

If you have a volt-meter or another way to check the voltage of your batteries, see how many volts they are maintaining. A furnace generally needs at least 12.5 volts to run, so if your batteries are much below that level, your furnace may fail to heat. If you find that your voltage is low, there are a few likely causes. First, you could simply have run your battery down for too long. When is the last time you charged it? How many items have you been running? Even though the heat in a furnace is produced by propane, the fan and associated mechanisms can require a surprising amount of electricity to work. If you aren’t sure why your battery is low, it may indicate an issue with your onboard charger. This issue will more than likely require a qualified repair person.

If possible, charge your batteries using either a shore-power charger, your tow vehicle, or solar. Once the batteries are charged, try again.
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6. Air Filter

The air filter is a surprisingly overlooked aspect of the heating system in an RV. A dirty air filter can create a myriad of issues and mask other symptoms. If your furnace is turning on but not heating efficiently, a clogged air filter is the primary suspect. In some cases, the filters are reusable. If so, simply clean the filter, let it dry, and reinstall. In other situations, you may need to replace the filter altogether. Thankfully, they are generally very inexpensive. In either case, allowing a free-flowing source of air can help give your furnace the boost it needs.

A Clogged Filter Can Cause a Blown Fuse

If a filter is extremely clogged, it can wreak more havoc than simply reducing airflow. If the blower motor is having to work particularly hard to move air through a dirty filter, it can overheat the motor and blow a fuse. If your furnace will run for a few minutes but then turns off without reason, this may be the culprit. In addition, many furnaces have oxygen sensors that detect how much air is available to burn. If the sensor doesn’t see enough air, it will tell the burner to shut off. Regardless of the symptoms, cleaning your filters is never a bad idea.
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8. Furnace

If you’ve completed these tests and you are still left without heat, you may have to face the unfortunate reality that the furnace itself may be faulty. As previously mentioned, propane RV furnaces are generally very reliable, but they are still susceptible to failed burners, jets, valves, and blower motors. Beyond this, we are increasingly seeing a high rate of failure in the control electronics themselves. Generally, furnace repair requires specialized knowledge and equipment, so it is not a great task for the home mechanic. On the bright side, they are generally simple devices that are reasonably cheap to repair. If you suspect a faulty furnace, any local RV shop should be able to help.
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RV Furnace Troubleshooting Tips

Beyond the broad advice given above, here are a few helpful tips that can help you diagnose a faulty furnace, or prevent an issue altogether.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: check ” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Test Your Furnace Before You Need it[/su_icon_text]

RVs are complicated. They combine the mechanical components of a car and a house and then subject everything to violent roads and conditions. In short, failures are not uncommon. The best method is to always test your furnace before you need it. A freezing night in the middle of nowhere is a terrible time to realize you don’t have heat.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: search-plus” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Research Your Specific Model[/su_icon_text]

The internet is an amazing thing, isn’t it? One key advantage to RV furnaces is that there aren’t that many different models. The vast majority of RV’s will have one of only a handful of furnace models, typically from either Dometic or Suburban (by Airxcel). Check the model number of your furnace and search for that specific brand. More than likely, someone out there has had the same issue you’re having and has already done the leg work for you.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: assistive-listening-systems” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Learn to Listen[/su_icon_text]

One of your most powerful tools in diagnosing an RV furnace is sound. What if your blower comes on but won’t ignite? Well, generally that will be a gas issue. What if you hear the flames ignite but there is no heat? That is often a broken or stuck blower fan. Listening for the symptoms can be a valuable method of knowing what is wrong, and can help you describe the symptoms to a repair person if need be.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: fire” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]How do I Manually Light My RV Furnace?[/su_icon_text]

Most RV furnaces have a manually lit pilot light. This is a small flame that is always burning in the furnace that allows the main burner to instantly ignite when the main gas valve is turned on. If you are not getting heat from your furnace or if you are using your RV for the first time in the season, you may need to manually relight your pilot.

The specific procedure will vary depending on the model, but there is normally a valve on the furnace labeled “pilot.” Turn the valve to this setting and get a long lighter (like you’d use for a candle). Using a flashlight, see where the gas line terminates into a nozzle. This is the pilot light. Light the lighter and verify that the pilot light is lit. If you are unsure, research the lighting procedure for your specific model.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: bolt” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Consider Carrying Back-Up Sources of Heat[/su_icon_text]

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy

• Emits 4,000 or 9,000 BTU/hr radiant heat
• Designed and approved for indoor and outdoor use
• Heats up to approximately 225 square feet

$79.99

Buy on Amazon

Struggling with a faulty furnace when the temperature is dropping is a stressful and frustrating experience. Being able to just “deal with it in the morning” is a wonderful gift on a frigid night. To accommodate this, I always carry at least two backup sources of heat in my RV during the winter. First, bring a simple electric space heater. These are not only cheap to buy, but they can save you money in the long run. When you book a campsite, the electricity is included. Thus, you may as well use electricity to heat your camper rather than expensive propane.

Second, bring a small propane heater in case you don’t have electricity. Mr. Buddy is a common brand, but there are many reputable makers. These small heaters generally run off the one-pound green bottles of propane, and they can put out a surprising amount of heat. Simply make sure to have a window cracked for both venting and moisture reduction. And always have a working smoke and carbon monoxide alarm in your camper!
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Conclusion

Whether you have an ultra lightweight toy hauler, or a bunkhouse travel trailer, when your RV furnace won’t ignite in the winter time, you can be scrambling for heat.

Thankfully, the mechanisms within these venerable heaters are fairly simple, and learning the basics of troubleshooting is a simple process. With a few methodical steps, you will more than likely have heat in no time. In either case, be prepared, plan ahead, and work through the options. And most importantly, enjoy your time camping.
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The post 8 Reasons Your RV Furnace Won’t Ignite appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

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If you’ve ever experienced problems with your squeaking when your car is turning, you probably know about CV joints and how important they are to a smooth ride.

If you’ve never heard of a CV joint, but your car is currently shaking, or you hear noises when you drive, damaged CV joints may be the cause. Don’t delay getting the problem checked out and see if something needs to be replaced, as damaged CV joints can be a safety hazard.

Read on for some common causes of CV joint damage and the costs associated with replacing them. 

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What Is a CV Joint?

A Constant Velocity (CV) joint is a key component of your car. It is part of the CV axle, which attaches the transmission to the wheels and enables you to steer the vehicle. The CV joint gives the wheels their range of motion, allowing them to turn and bounce up and down.

CV joints are most commonly found in front-wheel-drive cars, but some rear-wheel-drive, all-wheel-drive, and four-wheel-drive cars also have them. [/su_panel]

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What Are the Symptoms of a Bad CV Joint?

A CV joint needs a lot of grease to allow for a smooth range of motion. The joint is encased in a protective rubber cover called the boot, which keeps the grease in and protects the joint from debris on the road. The CV joint can become damaged if the boot is torn, which causes the joint to lose lubrication and allows debris to enter and interfere with the joint function.

Some common symptoms of a bad CV joint include:

• When you hear clicking or popping sound from the wheel, particularly when turning or slowing down
• Wheel vibration and shaking, especially when speeding up
• Grease leaking on, by, or near the wheel under your car
• Clunking during turns

This video by AutoZone dives into the CV axle, some common symptoms of it being bad, and some helpful tips.
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Can You Drive with a Bad CV Joint?

If you are experiencing any of the symptoms associated with a bad CV joint, repairs are necessary!

Driving with a bad CV joint can be dangerous.

In a worst-case scenario, the joint can completely fall apart while the car is in motion, causing you to lose control.

However, it would be best if you did not drive on a bad CV joint or put off repairs for too long. In addition to risking a dangerous scenario on the road, the longer you drive on a bad CV joint, the more damage you may cause to your car, resulting in more costly repairs.

If you end up waiting too long and breaking down, or worse, causing an accident, you can expect additional costs, including towing and any damages to your car or other cars. [/su_panel]

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New CV Joint Cost for Specific Vehicles

The cost to replace a CV joint depends on the type of car you have. A CV joint’s average cost is between $100-$200, but the price varies. CV joints for cars that are older, luxury, or imported may cost more.

It is often easier and more cost-effective to replace the entire CV axle, which has a CV joint on each end of the shaft, instead of replacing one joint.

Below are the costs of new CV joints for some popular vehicles:

• Honda Accord: $103-$198
• Honda Civic: $178-$220
• Subaru: $170-$372
• Ford Focus: ~$90

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How Long Does It Take to Replace a CV Joint?

On average, it takes about 1-2 hours of labor to replace a CV joint.

Keep in mind that if you plan to pay a professional to replace your CV joint or CV axle, the total cost is likely to be substantially higher than the price of the part alone. A professional may charge several hundred dollars more on top of the joint cost for labor. 1-2 hours of work will probably cost ~$200 or more. [/su_panel]

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How Long Do CV Joints Usually Last?

CV joints can last the lifetime of your car. It is not unusual to find a vehicle with 100,000-250,000 miles on it and the CV joints still in good condition. CV joint damage usually results from damage to the CV joint boot first. [/su_panel]

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What Causes CV Joints to Fail?

The two primary reasons a CV joint fails are lack of lubrication to prevent friction in the joint and damage caused by road debris.

A CV joint loses lubrication or comes in contact with debris when the CV boot is damaged, exposing the CV joint. Some common causes of damage to the boot, and subsequent damage to the CV joint and the CV axle, include:

• Car accident 
• Hazardous road conditions, including ice, large rocks, and debris left on the road
• Poor maintenance leading to rust and deterioration 

The CV joint on the passenger side is more likely to fail before the driver side, as it experiences more wear-and-tear. Moreover, this is because the CV axle on the passenger side is longer and comes under more stress than the one on the driver’s side.  [/su_panel]

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How to Prevent CV Joint Failure?

The CV boot is crucial to the condition of the CV joint. To keep the CV joint in good condition, take good care of the CV boot. Inspect the boot regularly, especially in hazardous road conditions, and replace the boot if there are signs of wear and tear to prevent damage to the CV joint.

If you catch damage to the boot quickly enough, you may be able to save the CV joint by cleaning and re-lubricating it before covering it with a new boot.  [/su_panel]

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Conclusion

The cost to replace a CV joint can be high, and you may be tempted to hold off on repairs. However, due to the risks of driving on a damaged joint, repairs are a must.

Do not worry if you do not know what a CV joint is or where to start. A CV joint replacement is a fairly standard procedure for most auto service providers and should be relatively quick and straightforward.

Unless you have car repair experience, it is recommended that you do not attempt joint repairs at home. Though paying a shop for labor costs may add several hundred dollars to the cost of replacing a CV joint, it will save you a lot of headaches (and potentially much more money) in the long-run. [/su_panel]

The post CV Joint Repair Costs appeared first on ScannerAnswers.

An exhaust manifold is the first component of a car’s exhaust system. Its purpose is to direct fumes emitted by the engine cylinders down and out through connected pipes to the muffler.

Since the exhaust manifold is one of the first components to handle the hot and highly pressurized fumes from the engine, it is often liable to damage. Cracks are common, especially in older models.

The average exhaust manifold repair cost can vary depending on the cause of the damage and how extensive the damage may be. Here, you will find out how an exhaust manifold can fail and how much it might cost to repair or replace it.

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How much does an exhaust manifold repair/replacement cost?

(Note: This post has been updated with a 2023 cost analysis due to significantly higher parts and labor costs). Finding out exactly how much your exhaust manifold repair cost is can be frustrating. Without going to see a mechanic, it’s challenging to get an exact number on how much your repair will be.  We’ve researched several different types of exhaust manifold repairs and found the average costs as listed below:

While each case is different, you can expect to pay between $220 and $1450, with the average cost falling in the range of $350 to $475.

Read more about exhaust leak costs. 

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How long does it take to replace a manifold?

The exhaust manifold is next to the engine, making it quite tricky to repair. Getting inside and removing some other parts may be necessary to get at the manifold. As such, it can take anywhere from three to five hours to replace or repair one. [/su_panel]

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Sample Prices to Repair

We will now look at a few different sample prices for different repairs.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: tint” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Leak Patch[/su_icon_text]

Patching a leak in an exhaust manifold typically requires welding. While this isn’t a permanent fix, it will stop the leak. You can expect to pay between $180 and $300 for labor, and $20 to $60 for parts, for a total of around $200 to $360.

J-B Weld Paste Kit

• MaxLife Technology prevents engine breakdown with 40% better wear protection than the industry standard
• Includes seal conditioners to reduce oil consumption and oil leaks in high mileage engines.
• Added detergents reduce sludge, corrosion, rust and deposits to help keep motors clean inside and ensure a smooth-running engine.

$19.97

Buy on Amazon

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: wrench” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Replacement[/su_icon_text]

Replacing an exhaust manifold can be very expensive. For labor and a new manifold, you can expect to pay around $1400.

[su_icon_text icon=”icon: cogs” icon_color=”#00a9e0″ icon_size=”33″]Replacing Bracket/Hangers[/su_icon_text]

The brackets that hold a manifold in place tend to break down. Getting these fixed may require welding of the exhaust manifold as well as replacing the part. For this, you can expect to pay around $425. [/su_panel]

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How long do exhaust manifolds last?

A new and correctly installed exhaust manifold should last the life of your car.

The biggest impact we’ve seen to the lifespan of manifolds of is rust. So if you live in the rust belt, or drive on salted roads, you may be replacing your manifold and entire exhaust around 60,000-100,000 miles.

If you’re towing or racing, all bets are off. Guys in the ‘Tuner Crowd’ are constantly swapping manifolds to squeeze that last bit of power out of their engines. If you know the word, Cobb, there’s a high likelihood you’ve replaced your manifold (by choice) 🙂

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What causes damaged exhaust manifolds?

Heat is the leading cause of damage to exhaust manifolds. The constant cycling of heat between the engine and the exhaust takes its toll over the years. Cracks will form along the manifold over the years that can compromise the manifold’s ability to deal with pressurized gases.

The other common type of damage mechanics find in exhaust manifolds are leaks. Heat is also the main cause, but affects the gasket that seals the gap between the manifold and the engine block instead of the manifold itself. When the gasket expands and contracts during heat cycles, the seal eventually wears thin or comes loose. Liquids can then seep out, affecting the performance of the vehicle.

AAMCO Minnesota has some more information on what causes damage to the exhaust manifold, along with some symptoms of damage.[/su_panel]

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How hot do exhaust manifolds get?

The temperature for exhaust manifolds will vary depending on the vehicle’s make and model. During regular operation, the exhaust manifold is usually around 300 – 600°F. However, the maximum you can expect it to reach is upwards of 1200 °F when the vehicle is under intense stress or the manifold is leaking.

If your exhaust manifold is operating above 1000 °F, there is typically a problem. An EGT gauge will help you monitor your temps.[/su_panel]

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Can I drive with a damaged exhaust manifold?

We highly recommend that you fix your damaged exhaust manifold before you drive your vehicle again. A cracked or leaking exhaust manifold will release heat and highly pressurized gas to surrounding parts, damaging and even melting or igniting fuel and wiring.

When your exhaust manifold fails, it’s not only dangerous for your car, but you as well. A critical car part failing can cause you to get into an accident. Even if the vehicle can turn on and operate, you shouldn’t drive it before getting the exhaust manifold repaired.

If you drive with a damaged exhaust manifold, the best-case scenario is that it causes damage to other components, increasing your repairs’ total cost. Worst case scenario is it auto-ignites the fuel, resulting in a fire or even an explosion. [/su_panel]

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How Does an Exhaust Manifold Leak Sound?

Since a damaged exhaust manifold is releasing gas, the sound it makes is akin to air escaping through a small hole in a balloon. You may notice a hissing sound or rhythmic tapping, especially during acceleration or when you cold-start the car.

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Intake Manifold Crack Symptoms

Your car also has an intake manifold, which brings in fresh air to regulate its internal temperature and keep the engine running at peak performance. When your intake manifold is damaged or failing, you may experience the following symptoms:

• Backfiring
• Rough idling
• Milky engine oil
• Leaking coolant
• Quick engine overheating

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What are some other exhaust leak symptoms?

You might notice other things wrong with your car in addition to the exhaust leak symptoms listed above. There may be a problem with your exhaust manifold if you experience:

• Decreased fuel efficiency
• Loud engine noises
• Low power on a turbocharged engine
• Irregular gas pedal vibrations
• Check engine light

While the check engine light signals a problem with the exhaust manifold, it can also indicate issues in other parts of the vehicle. It is essential to have a mechanic check out your car if the check engine light goes on, no matter what you might think the problem is. Doing this early on may reduce your exhaust manifold repair cost.

If you’re handy with a wrench, an Android or Apple OBD2 Scanner will help you pull DTC’s. Some common ones for exhaust you may see are P0471, P0014, and P0141

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Conclusion

We hope this article has helped you find out how much your exhaust manifold repair cost might be. While different mechanics will give different appraisals, you can expect the price to be no more than $1500, depending on the issue. Of course, the first step is diagnosing the problem; and Scanner Answers can help with that! [/su_panel]

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Subaru is one of the best Japanese car brands that has been around in the US market for over 50 years now. That’s why a lot of buyers choose to go for a Subaru, despite them being slightly more expensive than average.

Driving a Subaru guarantees an excellent level of performance and safety. They are a great choice when looking for a reliable new car. But are Subaru cars expensive to maintain? Let’s find out!

Comparing Different Subaru Models

Similar to all car brands, answering such a question depends heavily on many aspects. These aspects include models, current state, and more.

Let’s have a brief overview of the prices of some of the most popular Subaru car models in the market. I’ll also provide you with maintenance costs and how much it may set you back.

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Outback

Purchasing Cost  (New and Used)

The new 2020 model is completely redesigned with various changes throughout the car. That’s why you should expect a huge shake in the prices of the older models.

According to Subaru, the suggested starting price of the brand new 2020 basic Outback is about $26,945. The fully redesigned model is much more affordable compared to the average prices of this car category.

However, there are six different models of the 2020 Outback. The highest-end model is the Outback Touring XT with a suggested starting price of about $39,695. This means that the most common price of 2020 Subaru Outback is $33,170.

If you buy an older Outback model, you’ll definitely save some money. However, you should keep in mind that you’re going to settle for a different design. The previous generation of the Outbacks came out in 2015 with minor changes every year.

Maintenance Costs

The total annual cost for maintenance on a Subaru Outback depends on how you use the vehicle. The overall yearly maintenance cost can be as low as $100 or as high as $2,500.

However, most Subaru owners pay an average of about $600 on maintenance on their Outbacks. The first year has an average of half of that number and peaking at $2,000 after the first five years of ownership.

Common Repair Costs

As a rule of thumb, you should expect brand-new cars to not cost you any repair money for the first couple of years. Yet, as the times goes on, you’re likely to start spending between $250 to $350 on repairs.

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Forester

Purchasing Cost (New and Used)

Unlike the Outback, the latest generation of the Forester came out in 2019. The 2020 cars saw almost no difference, so you shouldn’t expect a huge change between their prices.

The Starting price suggested by Subaru for the 2020 model is $24,495. In addition to the baseline model, there are Premium, Sport, Limited, and Touring models. Forester Touring is the most expensive model, reaching about $34,595.

This means that the average price of a new Subaru Forester is about $29,545, which is less than some of its competitors, such as Toyota RAV4. Yet, it’s more expensive than others like Kia Sportage.

Buying a 1-year old Forster might be a good idea for many owners who are looking to save some cash. However, models before 2019 have different designs.

Maintenance Cost

The total annual cost for maintenance on the Subaru Forester is a bit higher than the Outback. You can expect to pay anything between $80 to $6,500 for repairs and maintenance.

The most common maintenance cost is about $630. That’s higher than the average for compact SUVs.

Common Repair Costs

While a new car won’t require you to spend money on repairs, the older models should cost you around $100 to $300. This number increases every year as the car ages.

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Impreza

Purchasing Cost (New and Used)

Subaru Impreza is available in sedan and 5-door models. The starting price for the sedan is about $18,695 and tops out with the limited edition at about $25,795.

The 5-door model starts at $19,195 reaching $26,295 for the limited edition. Similar to the Forester, the Subaru 2020 has minor updates from the 2019 model.

Maintenance and Common Repair Costs

The average annual cost for maintenance on the Subaru Impreza is about $650. You can expect to pay anything between $80 to $6,400 for repairs and maintenance.

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WRX

Purchasing Cost (New and Used)

The WRX is available in Standard, Premium, Limited, STI, and STI Limited edition. The price of a brand new WRX goes higher in that order.

The average price of a WRX is about $34,595, with the standard model at $27,495, and the STI Limited peaking at $41,695.

The WRX is a new model that started in 2015 with various updates on every model. As a result, you should expect a large gap in its price.

Maintenance Costs

The WRX has one of the highest maintenance costs among other models. Depending on the mileage and model, you should pay around $680 per year for average maintenance costs, not forgetting things like oil changes and tire rotation.

Common Repair Costs

Repairs on the WRX can reach up to $6,500. But, most of the common costs are way cheaper at less than $300 on average.

Love the WRX? Check out more Subaru race cars.

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Are Subaru Cars Reliable?

In short, yes!

Subarus offers some of the most reliable vehicles in the market. Every year, Subaru improves its models by adding new, unique features. They are also highly rated for their safety.

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Most Common Problems and Repairs

As you already noticed, most Subaru repairs revolve around similar problems. For example, the CV axle assembly is one of the most common fixes in all the previously mentioned models. Subaru’s parts can be slightly costly, but they’re durable and long-lasting.

And of course, the infamous Subaru head gasket problems…

Conclusion

There you have it. A thorough guide that shows you the prices of the best-selling Subaru models along with their maintenance costs.

As you can see, Subarus are relatively pricey to maintain. However, they’re highly reliable and durable, so you won’t have to spend a lot of money in the long run.
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Although internal combustion engines comprise several complex shafts, gears, and other components, the crankshaft and camshaft are critical ones. These are distinct kinds of shafts that serve particular purposes within the engines, including sending torque to the transmission and assisting in kickstarting its cycle. When learning how an engine works, I need to know that there are several differences between a crankshaft vs camshaft. Despite the differences, both are linked together such that if I have a vehicle with four-stock engines, it cannot effectively run if it does not have such components. In this guide, I will highlight more regarding the relationship between the camshaft vs crankshaft.

What is a Crankshaft?

It refers to an engine component that converts reciprocating (linear) piston motion into rotary motion. It is designed using ductile iron, and it is the main rotating part of an engine.

The crankshaft has additional bearing surfaces known as crankpins or crank throws, whose axis forms the base of the ends of the connecting rods from every engine cylinder attack.

Normally, the crankshaft is connected to a flywheel  to minimize the pulsation action of the four-stroke cycle.

It might also have a vibration or torsional damper at the opposite end to minimize torsional vibrations generated at the crankshaft length by cylinders from an output end resting on the metal. Most importantly, all major engine components, including connecting rod and piston, are supported by the crankshaft.

What is a Camshaft?

A camshaft is a long metal rod where numerous external components are attached. One object involves egg-shaped lobes that initiate the closing and opening functions of exhaust and intake valves. Such perfectly timed and installed lobes ensure that my vehicle functions properly through the combustion process.

Most modern engines come with a dual overhead camshaft design, where two cams are placed on every side of a machine. In such a case, one of the cams functions to control the opening times of the exhaust valves while the other controls how the intake valves open.

Other vehicle engines have a quad camshaft (four camshafts). However, when a vehicle has several camshafts, it does not mean that it can provide a better performance, but they add to design variety. In reality, most engines with one offer good performance.

Numerous belts, gears, and chains control the camshaft to attain precise timing. If I have the latest vehicle model, I might realize that it has a Variable Valve Timing Solenoid to help regulate the camshaft duration and lift according to the engine’s needs.

Where are the Camshafts and Crankshafts located?

The crankshaft is found in the crankcase.

The crankshaft rides on bearings that can wear with time. However, the bearings support the crankshaft and rods that connect pistons to a crankshaft.

In contrast, depending on the location, this part can directly operate the valves or through the linkage of rockers and pushrods.

In most cases, the camshaft is supposed to be positioned at the top of the engine cylinder. Such a direction operates a simple mechanism and results in limited failure.

P0008 and P0016 are common OBD2 DTC codes you might see if these parts have trouble

How is the Crankshaft built?

A crankshaft construction resembles an eccentric, but the eccentric has a smaller diameter than the shaft. The length of the crankshaft varies depending on the number of cylinders within an engine.

The crankshaft comprises molten iron, which undergoes rigorous polishing to ensure that it experiences limited friction.

The crankshaft has two journals that refer to sections of the shaft that rotate inside a bearing. The first one is the connecting rod journals, then links connecting rods to pistons. The second one is the main bearing journal located closer to the axis of rotation or shaft.

The crankshaft has an anterior portion referred to as the nose that contains a toothed gear connected with numerous other parts, including a valve train and a pulley. There is also a flywheel that is located towards the posterior area of the shaft.

The flywheel plays a critical role in the movement of a vehicle. It is vital to ensure that the journals do not experience friction since the crankshaft will be subjected to continuous motion while driving a vehicle. Such a case explains why the crankshaft has a specialized pathway so that oil can move through, making the rob to be effectively lubricated.

Related: Troubleshooting a bad crankshaft position sensor

How is the Camshaft built?

The design features a long bar of eccentric egg-shaped lobes where one of them acts as a fuel injector and the other for every valve. I need to know that the camshaft is a rod that is also referred to as the shaft, and it contains numerous cams. This component has several parts known as journals.

There is a cam position sensor at the front area of the camshaft that functions to detect rotation in the cam angle to initiate movement within the cylinder. The combustion cycle is the one that contributes to the movement in the cylinder.

Every cam has a head at the tip of the eccentric egg-shaped lobe. Also, it has a more rounded portion at the bottom end known as a heel. The area adjacent to the camshaft position sensor  is referred to as the trust, and it assists in ensuring the shaft stays in place while the car engine runs.

Speed

The crankshaft drives the camshaft either by timing gears (a pair of meshing gears) or by a pair of timing sprockets linked by a chain. In this case, the sprocket or camshaft gear has twice the number of teeth on the sprocket on the crankshaft. That gives it a gear ratio of 1:2, meaning the camshaft turns at half the speed of a crankshaft.

Two camshaft revolutions will generate one revolution of the crankshaft and one closing and opening of every valve in a four-cylinder engine.

The sprocket and gear maintain a definite time relationship between the camshaft and crankshaft to ensure that the valves open exactly at the appropriate time according to the piston position.

FAQs

Does the crankshaft turn the camshaft?

Yes. The crankshaft spins and such spinning helps in turning the chain or timing belt that rotates the camshaft. At the same time, the camshaft takes that rotational motion and employs it to repeatedly lower and raise the intake and exhaust valves of the car engine.

Are a cam and camshaft the same?

No. The camshaft regulates fuel power and fuel flow, while the crankshaft helps convert energy to forward motion. In other words, the camshaft ensures that the valves function according to their intended design, and the crankshaft offers power that is used to operate a vehicle.

Both components should work collaboratively for a vehicle to perform well.

What’s the difference between the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor?

The camshaft position sensor helps determine the firing cylinder to synchronize the coil firing and fuel injector sequence. In contrast, the crankshaft position sensor functions as a multifunctional sensor that assists in establishing ignition timing, detecting relative engine speed and RPM.

What turns faster, crank or cam?

The camshaft turns 1/2 the crankshaft speed. Therefore, the camshaft completes valve operation for a whole engine cycle since a four-stroke engine makes two crankshaft revolutions to finish one cycle.

Both camshafts and crankshafts are critical components in the drivetrain of a vehicle. The relationship between the two components impacts the performance of a machine in several ways. Further, both have sensors that ensure that they work appropriately. Most importantly, the two parts should move harmoniously to function effectively. Therefore, there should be precise timing between the two through a timing belt connection.

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